We meet the Quest molecule Karanol in “Une Rose” (Frédéric Malle), where Édouard Fléchier daringly pairs raw materials with synthetics. Each entry contributes to The Guide‘s impressive mosaic of information and evaluation. Instead, scientific discovery, the history of perfumery, social commentary and philosophical reverie unfold almost organically with the reviews. Facts abound, but Turin and Sanchez steer clear of a pedantic approach. The Guide‘s elegant reviews condense acerbic wit, enviable knowledge, and contagious passion, via bright narrative vignettes. To me, it serves more as a companion to sampling, discussing, contemplating and enjoying perfumes. The book is neither an encyclopedia nor a shopping guide. True, the authors do not hold back symphonic praise or fiendish criticism. True, it does not include catalog descriptions for the archives. True, the book does not offer scent pyramids for each fragrance. Critics of The Guide lament its lack of objective descriptions, along with the occasional lambasting of a cherished scent. Perfume reviews would not create a buzz if they it didn’t ruffle a few feathers.
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